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A strategic location at the broad mouth of the Chesapeake Bay, and an extensive deep-water harbor made colonial NORFOLK the main American trading port, and in the mid-eighteenth century it was the largest city in Virginia. After being burned by the British in 1775, and suffering naval bombardments during the Civil War, the modern city is little more than a supply depot for the vast naval shipyards. Along with Hampton and Newport News on the north side of the James River, Norfolk is home to the largest naval base outside Russia, and carriers, cruisers and all manner of gray-steel behemoths steam past incessantly.
On the downtown waterfront is Norfolk's premier attraction, Nauticus: The National Maritime Center (June-Aug daily 10am-6pm; rest of year Tues-Sat 10am-5pm, Sun 12-5pm; $9.50; ), housed in a formidable replica battleship. The Nauticus's steep admission price is justified by the interactive oceanography exhibits, the giant-screen films and the country's first group virtual reality experience, where goggled visitors sink into Loch Ness and protect Nessie's eggs from unwelcome scientists. The more serious-minded will enjoy the on-site Hampton Roads Naval Museum (same hours; free), which documents the growth of naval operations in the area. The adjacent International Pier is frequented by colossal US (usually the USS Wisconsin ) and foreign ships, which can be toured if they're docked for any length of time (call 757/664-1000 or 1-800/664-1080 for information). The small Elizabeth River ferry (Mon-Fri 7.15am-11.45pm, Sat & Sun 10.15am-11.45pm; 75¢; tel 757/640-6300) shuttles from nearby Waterside Park across the harbor to the historic Portsmouth neighborhood, where brick-lined streets are lined by eighteenth- and nineteenth-century houses.
Two blocks from the harbor, the Douglas MacArthur Memorial on Bank Street (Mon-Sat 10am-5pm, Sun 11am-5pm; free) houses the mortal remains and personal effects of the flamboyant US general. The leader of the Allied armies in the Pacific during World War II, who as head of the occupying armies wrote the constitution of Japan, MacArthur was relieved of his command during the Korean War, apparently because of his alarming desire to bomb China.
An extraordinary array of oriental antiquities is displayed in the intimate Tudor-style former home now known as the Hermitage Foundation Museum , on the Lafayette River at 7637 N Shore Rd (Mon-Sat 10am-5pm, Sun 1-5pm; $4, guided tours only). Its exhibits include Persian rugs, medieval tapestries, rare ancient Chinese ceremonial vessels, Roman glass and Art Nouveau.
The Chrysler Museum , half a mile north of the downtown waterfront on Olney Road and Mowlbray Arch (Wed 10am-9pm, Thurs-Sat 10am-5pm, Sun 1-5pm; $7, free on Wed), holds the eclectic collection of car magnate Walter Chrysler Jr. It includes a little bit of everything, from ancient Greek statuary to French Impressionist paintings, Franz Klein abstractions and Mayan funerary objects, as well as a world-class collection of Tiffany and Lalique glassware.
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