Salem Conventions, Trade Shows, Conferences and Meetings
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Ironically, SALEM is remembered less as the site where the colony of Massachusetts was first established, with the most elevated of intentions, than as the place where just sixty years later Puritan self-righteousness reached its apogee in the horrific witch trials of 1692. While the town itself was to prosper as a port as evidenced by its fine old buildings the witch scare did much to discredit the idea that the New World conducted its affairs on a different moral plane than the Old.

Nineteen Salem women were hanged as witches (and one man, Giles Corry, pressed to death with a boulder), thanks to a group of impressionable teenage girls who reported as truth a garbled mixture of fireside tales told by a West Indian, Tituba, and half-digested scare stories published by Cotton Mather, a pillar of the Puritan community.

That this history is now the basis of a child-oriented tourist industry all black hats and broomsticks makes Salem an interesting place. The Salem Witch Museum in Washington Square (daily: July & Aug 10am7pm; rest of year 10am5pm; $6) draws parallels with modern racism and political persecution, but is at heart a rather tacky show of illuminated dioramas and prerecorded commentary.

Innumerable other witch-related attractions in town are best ignored. Salem's later seafaring years are remembered in the Peabody Essex Museum in East India Square (AprilOct MonSat 10am5pm, Sun noon5pm; NovMarch closed Mon; $10), which since 1799 has assembled a remarkable collection of objects brought home by voyaging New Englanders. As well as extensive Japanese and Asian displays, it has one of only three existing breadfruit-wood idols of the Hawaiian god Ku, and details about the town's ships themselves.

Little of Salem's original waterfront remains, though the long Derby Wharf is still standing, together with the imposing Custom House at its head, where Nathaniel Hawthorne once worked. The House of Seven Gables at 54 Turner St, the star of his eponymous novel, is a rambling old mansion beside the sea (summer daily 10am7pm; rest of year MonSat 10am5pm, Sun noon5pm; $8). Hour-long guided tours of the complex also take in the author's birthplace, moved here from its original site on Union Street.