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Named by the Spanish merchant and explorer Vizcaino in 1602, MONTEREY was not colonized until 1770, founded as the military and admini-strative center of a territory that extended east to the Rockies and north to Canada (with a non-native population of less than seven thousand). By the mid-nineteenth century era of the US takeover and the Gold Rush, Monterey had become a forgotten backwater, hardly affected by the fresh waves of California immigration.
Impressive vernacular colonial buildings now stand unassumingly in the compact town center, within a few blocks of the tourist-thronged waterfront. A loosely organized Path of History connects the 37 sites of the Monterey State Historic Park . Most can't be entered unless you're part of a ninety-minute guided historic walking tour (daily 10am3pm; $5), leaving hourly from the park's Stanton Center.
The best place to get a feel for life in old Monterey is the Larkin House , on Jefferson Street a block south of Alvarado (entered only as part of the walking tour), home of the first and only American Consul to California. The New England-born Thomas Larkin, who was influential in persuading the Californians to turn towards the US and away from Mexico, is credited with developing the now-common Monterey style of architecture, mixing adobe walls, balconies of Greek Revival Southern plantations and a Yankee taste for ornament. The house, the first two-story adobe in California, is filled with millions of dollars' worth of antiques and memorabilia, and is surrounded by gorgeous gardens as well.
The Stevenson House , a short way east at 530 Houston St (entry as for Larkin House), is filled with memorabilia of Scottish author Robert Louis Stevenson, who passed through in 1879 and foresaw that Monterey's Mexican-influenced lifestyle was no match for the "Yankee craft" of the "millionaire vulgarians of the Big Bonanza." At the foot of the otherwise tacky Fisherman's Wharf , the Colonial Revival Pacific House (daily 10am5pm; $2) has been a courthouse, rooming house and dance hall since its construction in 1847, and is now the best of the local museums , with displays on Monterey history and a pretty fair collection of Native American artifacts. While in the area, wander by the historic balconies of the Customs House (daily 10am5pm; free), the oldest governmental building on the west coast, with portions built by Spain in 1814, Mexico in 1827, and the US in 1846 though it hasn't collected duties for 135 years.
A bike path runs the two miles to Pacific Grove, along Cannery Row named after John Steinbeck's literary portrait of the rough-and-ready workers of its fish canneries. During World War II some 200,000 tons of sardines were caught and canned each year, but the stocks were exhausted by 1945. The abandoned canneries reopened in the 1970s as malls and restaurants, and now teem with tourists instead of fish.
While no longer the county seat nor even its largest city (both honors rest with blue-collar Salinas), Monterey remains the area's best-known and most popular destination. A city of only 32,000, it attracts easily 100 times as many tourists each year. What do they come for? They come for the history, the culture, the food, and the shopping. What follows is a district-by-district look at what's hot in the other city by the bay.
Downtown
Monterey's carefully restored downtown is, in fact, the historical cradle of California. From 1775, when it became the capital of the Spanish colony of Alta California, through Mexican rule and the brief period of independent California, the whole state was governed from Monterey. Landmarks from each of these periods are preserved in the adobe Colonial-style houses that line the streets and calles of the district. Monterey State Historic Park, though it has seen fit to join the Wi-Fi revolution, is still probably the best place to catch a glimpse of the olden days. Historic buildings and pleasant gardens are the name of the game here, and the site plays host to historical reenactments and festivals (such as the Monterey Living History Festival every Independence Day, and Christmas in the Adobes in December). If you're in Downtown Monterey in February, and you're in a festival-going frame of mind, take in A Day of Romance in Old Monterey, a decidedly romantic celebration of the town's history. If you're in the mood to survey something other than California history, downtown is also the place to immerse yourself in pub life. A trio of authentic British-style pubs (The Crown & Anchor, Britannia Arms and the Mucky Duck) will keep you in suds all day and into the night.
Fisherman's Wharf
Within walking distance from downtown is Fisherman's Wharf, a well-touristed leftover from Monterey's days as a Spanish colonial capital, cargo facility, whaling station and port. Now it's home to some commendable seafood restaurants (like Cafe Fina and Rappa's) and more than a few lovely gift shops (try Carousel Candies for some homemade sweet treats, or The Wharf's General Store for just about everything else). Marine tours of Monterey Bay, including whale-watching trips, leave from the wharf (thanks to businesses such as Chris' Fishing Trips and MB Whale Watching).
Cannery Row
A mile down the coast from the Wharf is Cannery Row, a world-class tourist destination all its own. The bulk of its shops, restaurants and bars are housed inside historic former sardine-packing factories, so this serves as a dramatic reminder of the hard life depicted in John Steinbeck's epic novel about the neighborhood (named, curiously enough, Cannery Row). The area is crammed with gift shops (like The Garlic Shoppe) and other attractions (such as Steinbeck's own Spirit of Monterey Wax Museum), many of which give tourists quite a bit of historical and cultural bang for their buck. Many of the district's restaurants rank among the best in the Monterey Bay Area (grab an award-winning steak at the Whaling Station, or scarf some Italian-accented seafood at Massaro & Santos). Cannery Row's biggest attraction, and the primary reason for its resurgence as a tourist destination, is the aquarium. Arguably the finest aquarium in the world, the Monterey Bay Aquarium is as good as it is not only because of its imaginative presentation and great funding, but also because it focuses its attentions on what is just outside, in the deep waters of the Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary. You will see otters at play, a towering kelp forest, trance-inducing jellyfish, the world's largest aquarium window—and you can even pet a velvety Bat Ray.
Pacific Grove
West of Monterey along Ocean View Boulevard lies the cozy seaside community of Pacific Grove. Three hundred and fifty-five days out of the year, Pacific Grove is as quiet a town as one could hope to find, with tree-lined streets fronting small quaint houses (the mix of Spanish adobe construction with Victorian accents is irresistible). But in November, a peaceful madness descends: Pacific Grove truly becomes the 'City of the Butterflies' as hundreds of thousands of monarch butterflies stop off on their annual migration. Many of Pacific Grove's historic Victorian mansions have found new life as renowned bed and breakfasts (like the Martine or the Centrella), and others as noteworthy restaurants (such as Fandango). This is also the site of the Julia Morgan-designed Asilomar Conference Grounds, situated amongst the Asilomar State Park dunes at the foot of the Pacific Ocean and its dramatically crashing surf. |