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The small Mississippi port of HELENA , roughly sixty miles south of Memphis, was once the shipping point for Arkansas's cotton crop, when Mark Twain described it as occupying "one of the prettiest situations on the river." A small historic district bordered by Holly, College and Perry streets reflects that brief period of prosperity, before the arrival of the railroad left most of the river towns obsolete; today Helena's central core is little more than the slightly run-down Cherry Street on the levee.
That said, there are three good reasons to visit Helena. Musicians among its large black population have ensured that the town is an important stop for Delta blues enthusiasts - no great distance from Clarksdale, Mississippi, it hosts one of the country's leading blues festivals every October. Radio station KFFA (1360AM) with living legend "Sunshine" Sonny Payne, a DJ who started out in 1941, still broadcasts the long-running King Biscuit Time Show (Mon-Fri 12.15-12.45pm) from the foyer of the Delta Cultural Center , in the old train station at 95 Missouri St, at the end of Cherry Street; visitors are welcome. Helena was for many years the home of harmonica great Sonny Boy Williamson II ("Rice" Miller) , and featured in intimate detail in many of his (usually extemporized) recordings. He used to advertise Sonny Boy's Biscuit Meal on the radio show, and it continues to maintain the illusion that he is present in the studio. Each fall, on the weekend before Columbus Day, the city holds the King Biscuit Blues Festival (tel 870/338-4350, /), which is free and attracts some big name performers. |